How To Kill
Crabgrass
By
Joe Knapp
Anybody who has ever cared for a lawn knows about crabgrass. It's that weed that keeps popping up and never seems to go away. It is ugly; it is bad for your lawn; and we all hate it. The question which we are always trying to answer, therefore, is how to get rid of this ugly weed once and for all. Well folks, here are a few tips to help you make your lawn finally be free of crabgrass.
Crabgrass is a warm-season annual weed, meaning it gets reproduced by seeds. The best way to get that crabgrass-free lawn is to prevent it from ever showing up in your lawn. The best way to achieve this is by applying pre-emergent herbicides to your lawn at the right time.
In order to know the best time to apply the pre-emergent herbicides, it is vital to know the life cycle of crabgrass. When the top two to three inches of topsoil reach about sixty degrees Fahrenheit, the crabgrass seeds will first germinate. Crabgrass will then produce seeds for the purpose of reproduction from mid-summer till autumn. The crabgrass grows, and people get upset, but the crabgrass does not care. The crabgrass will then appear to get killed by the autumn frost, but this is not the case. The crabgrass is still very much alive despite the fact that the plant died. The seeds are still alive and getting ready for its next attack.
This is where the pre-emergent herbicides come into play. The pre-emergent herbicides basically spread a cover over the topsoil preventing any crabgrass from showing its ugly face. It is extremely important not to practice core aeration after the pre-emergent herbicides have been spread, since this would ruin the cover which the pre-emergent herbicides had created, giving the crabgrass an entry point to the surface of your lawn. Therefore, you should be careful to aerate your lawn before you put down the pre-emergent herbicides. One important thing to keep in mind is that pre-emergent herbicides kill the crabgrass before the seedlings emerge. Therefore, the pre-emergent herbicides should be applied before the seedlings emerge but not too far in advance of the germination.
There are many different types of pre-emergent herbicides. The differences in each pre-emergent herbicide are often related to how concentrated they are, how long they last, and how effective they will be. It is probably a good idea to speak to a local landscaper before applying pre-emergent herbicides to your lawn, because they should know when is the best time to apply the pre-emergent herbicide in your particular area. One very good pre-emergent herbicide that I will mention is Dimension. Dimension is safe to use on almost all lawns, and provides long-lasting protection from crabgrass. This is a very positive thing since not all crabgrass germinates at the same time. Some will germinate later. That is where the long-lasting protection of Dimension comes into play. It will also stop the crabgrass's late bloomers from emerging in your lawn. Another positive thing about Dimension is that it also acts as a post-emergent herbicide. This, as it implies, means that it will also kill crabgrass after it has emerged. Post-emergent herbicides are also effective, but it clearly makes more sense to prevent the crabgrass form ever showing its face, than waiting until it's ruining your lawn before taking action.
It is important to water your grass after you apply pre-emergent herbicides. This is because the water activates the active ingredients in pre—emergent herbicides. Additional applications of pre-emergent herbicides are also beneficial, because not all crabgrass germinates at the same time. These later applications will kill the crabgrass's late bloomers. It is also important to follow the label directions of whichever pre-emergent herbicide you are using. Do not aerate your lawn or dethatch your lawn after you apply pre-emergent herbicides, and do not apply pre-emergent herbicides on freshly laid sod. Pre-emergent herbicides are definitely the best way to get rid of unwanted and ugly crabgrass, but the best way to prevent crabgrass from even being an issue is by having a healthy lawn. There are a number of things you can do to ensure that your lawn is healthy.
The most important thing is to fertilize your lawn adequately and at the right time. The best time to heavily fertilize is in the autumn. By autumn, the frosts will probably have killed the crabgrass, thus making it a perfect time to fertilize. Another way to prevent crabgrass is by watering your lawn less frequently but more deeply. This way the water will go deeper than the crabgrass grows, since crabgrass is an extremely shallow weed. One more thing is to mow high, meaning that your grass should be about two or three inches high. This will cause your grass to block light from reaching the crabgrass.
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1800TopSoil The top choice in topsoil and top soil. Nationwide provider of topsoil and top soil in your local area for all your landscape supply. Years of experience in the topsoil and top soil industry to help you with topsoil and top soil for landscape supplies. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joe_Knapp |
Free Landscaping Ideas
For Fall
By
Sharon
Langston
Invigorating fall ... tingling, misty mornings ... Ahhh! My favorite time of year for having fun with all the gorgeous colors and for "chores" that actually become enjoyable when the weather is crisp and beautiful!
I love all the charming landscaping designs you can create in the fall. One idea is to use a pumpkin as a planter for some brightly colored mums, putting small holes in the bottom for drainage (if you are in the cooler regions of the country where it won't go bad quickly). You can also use a pretty weather-friendly manufactured one in the hotter regions.
I also like to hang the pumpkin (or jack-o-lantern) planter on a shepherd's hook (again you can get this at your local gardening supply center) or place it on an extra birdbath. This is the one time I will use silk plants outside -- to place around the bottom of the pumpkin in the birdbath, hanging over the edges or surrounding the arrangement.
Another landscaping idea is to use a large, outdoor planter in which you put some sort of bottom filler such as chicken wire or peat moss and then on top of that, arrange maybe some of the beautiful colored winter gourds you can buy at your local market or some small pumpkins with small pots of winter flowers.
Lots of people really love scare crows for the fall -- either sitting on a bench, or used in an arrangement with perhaps a couple of hay bales with pumpkins and/or fall flowers.
Some of the "maintenance" items I consider fun are working with stepping stones to make a new walk or place in some of your gardens. Either regular stones from your garden center, or using kits to make your own! There are beautiful mosaic tiles and colored glass you can use just for a few examples of materials. I have seen lady bug stones, flower stones, and many other personalized ones of every type as well.
This is also a great time to build a new patio, arbor or bridge or to make new beds with borders and mulch. Then you will be ready for your gorgeous new plantings when spring comes, and you can just have fun with your new plants!
I also like to do the things that are miserable to do in the summer, but therapeutic in the fall months. Some examples are painting or poly-coating your fences, cleaning out unwanted plants from your gardens to be ready for spring and replacing them with mulch, and anything else that can be unpleasant when the weather is warm or hot.
Finally, there are the mundane lawncare and landscaping things you do to maintain a beautiful lawn year-round, such as:
Mowing
to 1-1/2" to stimulate it's growth in the Spring
Fertilizing
with a balanced mix of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium in late
September/early October and then again in November for a thick, beautiful
turf, but also for cold-resistance during the winter months.
Aeration
skip this step, and you will not have a gorgeous, carpet-like lawn in the
spring no matter how much you fertilize!
Do this in September or October as well, and then once again in the spring. Even just a fall aeration can produce amazing results in your turf. You can rent or buy an aerator, or use an attachment found at your local garden supply store for your mower that will also work well. (Do be cautious with the mower attachment method as it can over-heat your mower if you do not let it rest periodically during the aeration process). I learned that the hard way!
Watering
It is best to water in three short five-ten minute cycles in the morning. I
find that for problem areas or brown spots, hand-watering works best rather
than more water.
Mulching
Mulch is as important in the winter as in the summer. It can prevent root
freezing (or burning in the summer), help drainage and water evaporation,
and discourage weeds year-round. It also improves the soil quality which
creates more nutrients for your plants.
One to three inches of organic mulch such as bark, straw, leaves, compost or even pine tree needles or grass clippings will do fine.
My personal favorite is the red-colored mulch -- especially for the fall months as is it is a deep reddish-burgundy (very fall-looking color), and makes a wonderful contrast for your evergreen hedges, trees and brightly colored fall flowers.
I hope you find these tips helpful and that you will find some things you can do from them that you will have fun with as well. Have a great fall and a magical winter holiday season!
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Sharon I have over fifteen years experience in gardening and landscaping and a lifetime passion for beautiful gardens, flowers and landscape designs of every type. Knowing nothing at all about building websites, I started to create my own site so I could share my passion, experience, and inspiring ideas with fellow gardeners all around the world. I welcome your feedback, ideas, photos, and discussions on my forum so you can also use my website to share your knowledge. Come see me there - we'll have a lot of fun! Cheers, and Happy Gardening! Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sharon_Langston |